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Global Fashion Collective NYFW/VFW SS19

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Backstage Photo by Arun Nevader

The Global Fashion Collective (GFC) is a platform for creative designers based around the globe to showcase and present their work to the different fashion capitals. Originating in October 2017, the mission of these exclusive shows is to liberate and accelerate the international exposure of global designers and to increase the diversity of the fashion industry. The collective presented in New York Fashion Week on the 7th and 8th of September, showing the diverse work of the international designers in the collective.

Ozlana – Collection Designed by Hannah Kim

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Korean/Australian designer Hannah Kim

“Design brand Ozlana represents a new category of street couture, fusing delicate details and elaborate craftsmanship with trendy street wear. An Australian fashion house devoted to the sustainability of artisan techniques, the collections show quality fabrication with eclectic and contemporary embellishments. Fun and playful garments feature experimental textiles, youthful silhouettes, and beaded accessories. Mixing a cool and edgy feel with the charm of romantic couture, the brand is known to be one of the most loved Australian fashion brands among the Asian Market, with many famous Chinese celebrities and international fashion figures counting Ozlana in their wardrobe.” – GFC

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Backstage Photo by Byeongcheol Jo – @4cheolm

For me, the best way to describe this collection is gracefully feminine. The smallest details on each of the pieces really create the element of an elegant and fairy-like statement. Her use of pearls, satin fonts, floral patterns and pastel colours are prominent throughout each of the pieces in the collection. The outfit which features the pink flares, pink fur-trimmed coat and ‘Dream Still’ tee gives me major Clueless or Legally Blonde vibes. I love the way each piece is fitted with one colour scheme so that all the pieces blend into one another to create the masterpiece. It is statement, yet there are no statement pieces within it – the whole outfit is the statement. I like this because it means all the pieces in the outfit have equal value as they provide equal contribution to the piece as a whole! I love how casual the second look is, it could be taken straight from the runway to the streets. Although it is a casual look, it does not suffer to be well put together with the patterns and colours – the red bag coincides with the red font and red floral pattern on the skirt, whilst also maintaining the pastel pink hue over the fit.

(Runway Photos by Jonathon Lapada @j.lapada)

This pastel themed dress is incredible. If you look carefully, the pattern is of small cartoon sketch-style butterflies coloured in purple and pink shades. It reminds me of the 70s and Woodstock, but with a modern and feminine touch. The transparent coat immediately screams ‘Festival Season’ to me, I love the contrast of materials with the fur and plastic. The outfit has been extracted of its soft look by the transparent material, immediately making it a little less ‘baby bird’ and into a wearable piece that is practical and waterproof (something that fur is not unless covered! I love that it enables fur to be wearable in all-weather conditions!)

Profanity – Collection Designed by Lillzkills (Lillea Goian)

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Canadian Designer Lillea Goian

“Lillzkillz, Lillea Goian is a 20-year-old Vancouver, Canada based fashion designer. Her line Profanity is a direct reflection of Lillea’s personal style and ethos. Profanity represents freedom from societies rules, inclusivity and limitless possibilities. She has been featured in Nylon, Vogue USA, Vogue UK, Elle Magazine, and is currently selling on dollskill.com“- GFC

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Backstage Photo by Byeongcheol Jo – @4cheolm

Initially it is the colours that strike me first in these pieces, but also the industrially inspired design. Contrasting and bold colours highlight the collection throughout, intertwined with the industrial style designs it reminds me of outfits for the future or outer-space. The theme of transparent plastic material is shown again (potential trend for the next season?) which highlights the clothing underneath, almost like a frame. I love how Lillea has used straps and chains as details on the pieces. It reminds me of brands such as The Ragged Priest.

This vibrant yellow design is my favourite from the whole collective! I don’t think I have been able to relate to a piece of fashion more than this one. “WHERE THE FUCK IS THE REMOTE” if that doesn’t describe my life I don’t know what will. In terms of the design, the emphasised shoulders are the highlight of the piece. The transparent material makes an appearance on the orange piece, with more of the astronaut, futuristic designs shown.

 NOT DEAD YET – Collection Designed by Adam-Lin Bungag

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Canadian Designer Adam-Lin Bungag

NOT DEAD YET is a Vancouver-based experimental unisex apparel line designed by Adam-Lin Bungag that aims to deconstruct and divulge the unspoken narratives of finding identity in relation to the constructs of masculinity, femininity, and sexuality.” – GFC

Backstage Photo by Byeongcheol Jo - @4cheolm

Backstage Photo by Byeongcheol Jo – @4cheolm

My immediate impression of this collection is ultimate grunge. Yet again, more transparent material is used on the first design (noticing a theme?) but with tartan instead of the fur from Ozlana. This collection really uses the technique of trialling angled pieces, with different cuts and lengths. It pushes the boundaries of classic fashion trends and pulls towards the 90’s skate era. Chains are a heavy feature in this collection, questioning the lines between femininity and masculinity.

Contrast stitching has been prominent in the trends recently, this cropped cut off jacket presents that in the grunge style. The monochrome features of the 3rd outfit make it a bold piece, the contrast stitching is accompanied by the contrast of the white top and the black trousers – similar to the white stitching on the black jacket. What I love about the last outfit is the use of monochromatic colours with the tartan details being a small element of the piece, adding a touch of the tartan shown in the initial pieces for the collection, as well as the coloured bands around the arms.

Nozomi Kuwahara – Collection

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Japanese Designer Nozomi Kuwahara

“Launching in 2017, NOZOMI KUWAHARA is a childlike, humanlike, optimistic, and playful designer. For her latest collection, she showed her fun and friendly monster collection at Vancouver Fashion Week. Visit the website to browse of her eclectic collection on the runway. About her background, she graduated from Parsons New School for Design after she studied at Bunka Fashion College in Japan. After she graduated, she worked as an intern at several places in New York. After she completed and came back to her country in Japan, she decided to launch her label.” – GFC

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Backstage Photo by Byeongcheol Jo – @4cheolm

This collection features a wide variation of colour schemes and styles, going from monochromatic formal wear to brightly coloured fun pieces. The first pair of outfits compliment each other with same pattern. I love how the shoulder sleeves make an extension of the dress on the right, with the stripe down the side of the skirt. The pale green pieces have 50’s features such as the midi skirt length. The feature which makes the green pieces stand out is the ankle design, which brings all the colours from the palette together.

These pieces are rather different to the previous four. They demonstrate Nozomi’s fun style and experimental elements with colour. The brightly coloured one-piece reminds me of carnivals and festivals. The same ankle piece features as it did on the green duo, bringing together the piece as a whole. The salmon pink suit brings back the formal wear, but with the fun approach that Nozomi adds to her designs.

Kim Tiziana Rottmüller – Collection

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German Designer Kim Tiziana Rottmüller

“Kim Tiziana Rottmüller has been working on her own line since 2017 while she was still studying and has showcased since then internationally. She graduated recently after a 4 year BA program at Polimoda, Florence Italy in Fashion Design. Its her second time in 2018 at New York Fashion Week. She exhibited her previous collection Bittersweet in the Mood Museum, Italy for which got awarded with the IDA Design Award in Haute Couture Gold, Avant Garde Bronze and the Silver A Design Award. Her design signature lies in provocation through a feminine but also playful way which stress and complete the main idea of the concept that also provocation is beautiful too, as well as the discovery of oneself through her design. She pays a lot of attention that everything is connected in a coherent way, supported with a surrealistic impact.” – GFC

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Backstage Photo by Byeongcheol Jo – @4cheolm

At first this collection gave an extravagant impression. The haute couture designs are shown on these pieces, which have emphasised volume and size to really show off the beauty of the material. This bold pink woollen jumper has tarot cards intertwined into it, which from my perspective would be Kim’s way of ‘wearing your spirituality’ and discovering yourself through what you wear, which in this case would involve the use of tarot cards. The second piece features the silky patterned material ruffled into the skirt of the dress into a voluminous masterpiece. My favourite element of this piece though is the mesh block the model is wearing as a headpiece. For me I think that Kim did this to push the attention away from the model’s beauty and onto the beauty of the dress itself. The fashion industry pushes so much attention onto the beauty of the models that perhaps Kim feels her designs cannot be presented in a spotlight on their own. Rottmüller has brought attention to detail on a large-scale with all her pieces.

Kirsten Ley – Collection

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Canadian Designer Kirsten Lay

Kirsten Ley is an award-winning Canadian couture designer who has recently launched a prêt-à-porter line. Using intuitive and sculptural techniques, she creates visceral one-of-a-kind works of art, juxtaposing structurally bound garments with the softness and translucency of fervent, flowing silks. Ley launched her eponymous label in 2017 and immediately gained sponsorship to showcase her avant-garde works. In the span of just 12 months, Ley has shown three collections in seven international shows, including New York Fashion Week (FW18) and Amazon Fashion Week Tokyo (SS18), and has been featured five times in British Vogue, Vogue Italia and Vogue China.” – GFC

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Backstage Photo by Byeongcheol Jo – @4cheolm

Ley’s collection revolves around a formal, yet bold style. The dark red and burgundy colour scheme links the designs together, but the colour is used in different ways on each piece. For the white dress it’s a small detail, the one-piece it’s the central attention, an accessory on the 3rd fit, and a contrasting statement item on the 4th. I love the use of fur on the 2nd outfit, it draws the attention towards the figure-hugging design and the shoulders being emphasised.

The broad-shouldered style is shown again in this outfit, this time partnered with a much more feminine skirt. However, the structured look is maintained with the red piece in the centre of the outfit. I’m a big fan of circular jewellery and accessories, so this strapped design I’m in love with (as well as the turtleneck, I’m always a fan of those.) The red faux-fur jacket is beautiful, but also completely wearable! Yet again the shoulders are the widest part of the outfit, placing the focus to a streamline over the outfit. The black zip-up skirt is something we can all take inspiration from and wear ourselves!

XY Collection by Han (Crystal) Zhang

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Chinese Designer Han (Crystal) Zhang

“XY is the first letter of the word Xiyuan, which can be roughly translated as ‘Cherish Predestined Relationship’, a concept that has a lot to do with Buddhism philosophy. ‘Yuan’ can be understood as good karma. In terms of inspiration, most stem from ethnic Chinese cultures with focus on the finer elements in the embroidery works of the ethnic Miao people, fused with Chinese red and contemporary fashion concepts. She transcended the solidarity and constraints of traditional ethnic culture and expanded on the concept of what ‘ethno’ is internationally. The totems in red in her works represent mythical energy guarding the people living in the mountains. The red totems give life to modern fashion, radiating love and passion for life. They are utterly different and out-of-this-world, a metamorphose of vogue and a lasting classic.” – GFC

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Backstage Photo by Byeongcheol Jo – @4cheolm

Immediately I love the mesh detailing on the first design, the dark red colour (inspired by the Chinese red) underneath is a perfect match to the shade that mesh on skin creates. The second piece has beautiful red swirled embroidery, which tails off into trails of red down the dress. I love that the embroidery forms into rose-like shapes, making an abstract piece floral and summery. The blue statement skirt on the dress pulls the outfit together and illustrates a beautiful backdrop for the red streams to fall onto.

Though more extravagant than her other pieces, this voluminous white design is, although at first overwhelming, it is the structured detail of the red straps that juxtapose the freedom of the white skirt material. These straps put a modern and almost industrial control over the skirt, I love how different the two details are in terms of style, yet they also work nicely together as they compliment the genres they each fall from. The black dress, although simple, is effective when shown with tthe red patterned bag, using the same material shown in the first mesh piece.

Carlton Jones – Collection

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American Designer Carlton Jones

Carlton Jones started turning heads early in his career as a stylist, when he began to transform the image of hard rapper Queen Latifah into the beautiful songstress we know today. Almost two decades later, after serving as a fashion director, style correspondent, image consultant, and wardrobe designer, Carlton has begun to combine his love of style and fashion with the elation received from travelling to some of the most breathtaking destinations imaginable. The genesis of his eponymous resort-inspired collection utilises his experience dressing body types ranging from Halle Barry and Erykah Badu, to Aretha Franklin and Michelle Obama. Carlton has incorporated his fondness of relaxed fluidity, sensual fabrics, colours and prints with a seasoned ability to forgive and accentuate. Creating this travel inspired collection in New York, resort clothing becomes less of a destination; it’s a Feeling!” – GFC

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Backstage Photo by Byeongcheol Jo – @4cheolm

The bright pastels on this dress make it seem ethereal, as though it is taken straight from a fantasy with the fun design. My favourite feature of the design is the way the blue attaches at the neck then falls down at an angle opposite to the salmon pink dress-section. The colours are all placed at different angles, creating an illusion of a curved figure on the model. I feel that both of these designs take inspiration from the 70’s, especially the flared trousers on the white piece. Below the two pieces have very sandy colours throughout, yet the 1st one has the green bikini piece as a statement within the design. These two of Jones’ remind me of the Yeezy collection (due to the colour palette) with the longer lengths of designs and paler colour schemes.

Written and edited by Ella Jones
@elzyella / www.ellacharlottejones.co.uk

This entry was posted in: Art

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I'm a 17-year-old freelance writer from the UK I love all types of music ranging from Lana Del Rey to SZA to the Arctic Monkeys to Tame Impala. I'm a huge CD junkie and concerts make me happy (I love dancing to loud music!)

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